A winter coat should fit snugly enough to follow your silhouette, but loosely enough to wear a sweater or cardigan underneath. The rule of thumb: if you can move your arms freely and slide a flat hand under the coat without the fabric pulling tight, then the coat fits well. Below you will find answers to all your questions about fit, size and the differences between coat types.
How do you know if a winter coat fits well?
A winter coat fits well if it sits comfortably around your shoulders, offers enough room for a layer underneath and does not pull or wrinkle when you move. Check this by lifting your arms, bending over and putting on a sweater under the coat. If all of that goes smoothly, the coat fits well.
When trying on a coat, pay attention to three zones: the shoulders, the chest and the waist. The shoulder seam should end exactly at the tip of your shoulder, not above it and not down your arm. If that seam falls too far out or in, no fit trick can fix it. The chest and waist may fit neatly, but should not pull when you stand upright.
With leather jackets the shoulder is even more decisive, because leather gives less than a wool coat. If you are buying a leather jacket, it is worth actually trying it on in the store before you decide. That way you can be sure you will enjoy wearing it later on.
How much room should a winter coat have?
A winter coat should have enough room for at least one substantial layer underneath, such as a thick sweater or a hoodie. That comes down to roughly two to four centimeters of extra ease around the chest compared to a summer jacket. The thicker the middle layer, the more room you need.
This differs per type of coat. A bomber jacket is naturally cut a bit roomier around the torso and can easily accommodate a thin sweater. A more fitted leather biker jacket has less ease, but that is intentional: that jacket is designed to sit close to the body. If you still want to wear an extra layer underneath, feel free to go up a size.
With a bodywarmer the reasoning is different: it covers your torso but leaves your arms free, so the room is all in the core. A bodywarmer can be a little roomier, so that it fits over a cardigan or thick shirt without bulging.
When is a winter coat too tight?
A winter coat is too tight if the fabric pulls when you move, the buttons or zipper are under strain, or your shoulders can no longer move freely. Visible pull lines across the chest or back are a clear signal: the coat is too small, even if it fits loosely around your waist.
These are other signs that a coat is too tight:
- The zipper or buttons do not close without resistance.
- You feel pressure on your shoulders when you raise your arms.
- The collar stands up or pinches your neck.
- The sleeves ride up when you bend your elbows.
With leather coats a new jacket can feel tight at first, because leather needs some breaking in. But there is a difference between stiff and too small. If the fit across the shoulders is right and the coat closes without strain, the leather will soften on its own. If the shoulders are off, the coat simply does not fit.
When is a winter coat too loose?
A winter coat is too loose if the shoulder seam falls too far down the arm, the sleeve hangs more than a centimeter over your hand, or the coat hangs around your torso like a sack with no shape at all. Too much room not only makes the look sloppy, but also reduces warmth: cold air circulates freely under the coat.
A common mistake is buying a coat in the size that fits over your thickest winter sweater, while you also wear it on other days. Think beforehand about what you will structurally wear underneath. If you are buying a wool coat to wear over a turtleneck, some extra width makes sense. But if the coat will also be worn over a tank top or dress shirt, that same room can quickly look messy.
With parkas a somewhat roomier fit is more common, because they are designed for function. But even then the same applies: the shoulder seam must sit in the right place, otherwise you lose the silhouette entirely.
What is the difference in fit between a leather coat and a textile coat?
A leather coat is naturally made of less stretchy material and requires a more precise fit, while a textile coat allows more ease thanks to the suppleness of the material. With leather, a difference of one centimeter is already noticeable; with a wool coat or parka you have more margin.
Concretely:
- Leather jackets and biker jackets fit best when they feel just slightly snug the first time you try them on, because they mold to your body. Do not buy them too loose: you would lose the desired silhouette.
- Suede jackets (made of real suede) behave similarly to leather, but feel softer and give a little more. Suede-look jackets made of polyester have higher stretch and are easier to get a good fit.
- Bomber jackets have a sportier, roomier cut that offers more flexibility in choosing a size.
- Wool coats and jackets have a structured drape but give more freedom at the hem. You can buy them slightly roomier if you want to wear a turtleneck or thick cardigan underneath.
- Bodywarmers are the least critical in terms of fit, as long as the shoulders are right and the front closes neatly.
Which fit suits which body type?
There is no universal fit that works for every body type: broad shoulders call for a different cut than a slim or more muscular build. The starting point is always the same: choose the size that fits the widest point of your body and only then adjust the rest if necessary.
Broad or muscular build
If you have broad shoulders or a more muscular upper body, choose a coat with a slightly straighter or roomier cut. A bomber jacket or a leather pilot jacket works well, because they naturally offer room in the shoulder and upper arm. Avoid extremely tapered models: they emphasize the difference between shoulder and waist too strongly.
Slim or tall build
For a slimmer or taller build, well-fitted models look best. A leather jacket or a suede jacket with a fitted cut gives a clean line. A coat that is too loose makes a slim figure look thinner or narrower than it is. If you are very tall, also choose a slightly longer coat, such as a wool coat or a parka, so that the proportions are right.
Normal or average build
With an average build you have the most freedom of choice. Almost any cut works, from a fitted leather biker to a roomier coat from the winter coats collection. The choice then depends more on your style and purpose than on size correction.
How does Donders 1860 help you find the right fit?
We offer coats in a wide range of cuts, so you never have to compromise on fit. Whether you are looking for a fitted leather biker or a roomier wool coat to wear over a thick sweater: our range runs from close-fitting to comfortably roomy.
- Leather jackets and leather biker jackets in classic and slimmer cuts, suitable for anyone who wants a sleek line.
- Bomber jackets and leather bombers with a sportier, roomier fit.
- Suede jackets and suede-look jackets made of polyester, for those who want suppleness and a little more stretch.
- Wool coats and wool jackets, ideal if you need a roomier in-between size for extra layers.
- Bodywarmers in various lengths, a perfect complement to tailored trousers or a pantsuit.
When choosing, use the shoulder seam as your starting point, and consider the thickness of the layers underneath and the type of occasion you are buying the coat for. Want a sleek look for everyday use? Then go for a leather jacket in your exact size. Looking for a versatile coat for fall and winter? Then a parka or wool coat gives more room for layers.
Feel free to take a look at our fall-winter collection and find the coat that suits your build and style. Or go straight to the homepage of Donders 1860 for the complete range.