A leather jacket should fit snugly but comfortably, without feeling tight or having too much room. The shoulder seam sits at the end of your shoulder, the jacket closes neatly around your chest and waist, and your arms move freely without the jacket riding up. The fit determines not only how the jacket looks, but also how long it lasts. In the questions below you will find everything you need to know about the right fit for a leather jacket.
How much freedom of movement should a leather jacket give?
A leather jacket gives you enough freedom of movement to raise and move your arms comfortably, without pulling tight at the shoulders or chest. You should be able to lift your arms to shoulder height and bend your elbows without the material feeling tight. At the same time, the jacket should not be so loose that it bunches up or loses its shape.
Leather has little stretch, but it does give as you wear the jacket more. This means that a new leather jacket may feel slightly tighter than what you are used to from a textile jacket. When trying one on, pay attention to the following points:
- You can lift your arms to shoulder height without the jacket riding up
- You can wear a light sweater or thin cardigan underneath without the jacket feeling tight
- The jacket feels comfortable when sitting and driving
- The zip closes smoothly without straining the material
Does the jacket feel just a little too tight but otherwise fit well? Then chances are it will fit perfectly after a few weeks of wear. However, if it already feels too tight at the shoulders or chest when you try it on, going up a size is the better choice.
Where are the key fit points of a leather jacket?
The key fit points of a leather jacket are the shoulders, the chest width, the waistline and the sleeve length. If these four points fit well, the jacket fits well, regardless of the style. The shoulder seam is the most decisive: it should fall exactly at the end of your shoulder, not beyond it and not too far inward.
Below you can see what to look for at each fit point:
- Shoulders: The seam falls at the edge of your shoulder. If it hangs over your arm or sits too high on your shoulder, the size is not right.
- Chest: When the jacket is closed, there should be no strain on the zip or buttons. There is a little room, but the jacket does not hang loosely around your torso.
- Waist: With a slim-fit or regular-fit leather jacket, the jacket follows the line of your body. There should be no excess material hanging at the sides.
- Sleeves: The sleeve ends at your wrist joint. The sleeve should not be too wide, so that it does not sit loosely at the wrist.
- Back length: The jacket fully covers your hips and hangs straight down, without riding up at the back.
Does a leather jacket loosen up after breaking it in?
Yes, a leather jacket becomes looser and more supple the more you wear it. Leather is a natural material that adapts to the movements of your body. After a few weeks of regular wear, the leather gives in the places where your body needs it, such as the elbows and the shoulders. This applies to jackets in black leather as well as styles in brown leather.
Keep the following rules of thumb in mind when breaking in your jacket:
- A new leather jacket may feel slightly tight, but it should never pinch or restrict movement
- Expect a few weeks of regular wear before the jacket has fully molded to your body
- Micro suede and suede-look polyester materials break in less than real leather, but they also give a little
- Don’t wear the jacket for too long at a stretch at first, so the leather gradually gets used to you
A jacket that is too tight at the shoulders will not break in at that spot. The shoulders are the only fit point that does not improve with breaking in. If the jacket is slightly tight elsewhere, that is not a problem in most cases.
Which fit suits which type of leather jacket?
The right fit depends on the style of leather jacket. A biker jacket naturally fits more snugly and is shorter than a long leather coat or a bomber jacket. The style determines the silhouette, and the fit should match it. A biker jacket that is too loose loses its character, while a bomber jacket that is too tight is uncomfortable to wear.
- Biker jacket: Slim-fit, sits close to the torso and is short in length. The jacket should not flap loosely at the sides.
- Bomber jacket: Regular-fit or relaxed-fit, slightly roomier at the chest and waist. The ribbed hem and cuffs fit closely at the hips and wrists.
- Sporty mid-season jacket: Regular-fit, suitable for wearing a thick sweater underneath. Gives more room at the chest than a biker jacket.
- Gilet: Cut more generously, because it is worn over other layers of clothing. The shoulders remain the reference point for the right size.
- Long leather jacket or coat: Straight or slightly tailored fit, falls straight down from the shoulders without bunching.
When in doubt, always choose based on the fit at the shoulders. You can have the rest of the jacket altered if necessary, but not the shoulders.
What to do if a leather jacket doesn’t fit perfectly?
If a leather jacket doesn’t fit perfectly, there are three options: exchange it for a different size, have the jacket altered by a leather specialist, or break it in if it only feels too tight in specific places. Leather can be altered well at points such as the waistline and the sleeve length, but alterations to the shoulders are complex and expensive.
Use this checklist to determine the best step:
- Jacket is too big at the shoulders: Exchange it for a smaller size. Shoulders cannot be altered.
- Jacket is too loose at the waist or chest: A tailor or leather specialist can take in the side seams.
- Sleeves are too long: Sleeve length can easily be adjusted by a leatherwear specialist.
- Jacket feels tight but fits at the shoulders: Break the jacket in. Leather gives with regular use.
- Jacket is too big overall: Go down a size. A leather jacket that is too big loses its shape and feels uncomfortable to wear.
Never be tempted to buy a leather jacket thinking it will fit eventually if you lose weight or start working out more. The fit has to be right now, at the shoulders and chest.
How Donders 1860 helps you find the right fit
At Donders 1860 we understand that a leather jacket is an investment that lasts for years. That’s why we help you make the right choice, not only in terms of style but also in terms of fit. Our range includes leather jackets in black and brown leather, bomber jackets, sporty mid-season jackets and gilets, all available in multiple sizes and cuts.
Here is what we do for you:
- We provide detailed size information for each style, so you know what to expect
- Our range includes styles in slim-fit, regular-fit and relaxed-fit, tailored to different body types
- We give personalized style advice, so you choose the right style for how you will use it
- With us you will find jackets made of real leather as well as micro suede and suede-look versions made of polyester, each with its own fit characteristics
Browse our full range of men’s jackets and find the jacket that not only looks good, but fits just right.