You can prevent a wool coat from pilling by washing, storing and wearing it the right way. Pilling occurs when loose fibers clump together through friction, but with a few targeted habits you can keep your wool coat looking good season after season. In this article, we answer the most frequently asked questions about wool coat care.
Why does a wool coat pill in the first place?
A wool coat pills because short wool fibers come loose from the fabric through friction and clump together into small balls. This happens most in places where movement and pressure meet, such as the armpits, the sleeves and along the zipper. It is a natural process that occurs in all wool fabrics, but the speed and extent to which it happens vary greatly depending on quality.
Friction is the main cause. Think of the inside of a bag constantly rubbing against the sleeve, or a backpack pressing on the shoulders. Washing at too high a temperature, spinning too fast or using the wrong detergent also speeds up the process considerably. The looser the weave of the wool, the sooner loose fibers get the chance to clump together.
Finely woven or combed wool pills less quickly than coarsely woven varieties. Merino wool and other fine types of wool have longer, more tightly interwoven fibers, which slows down pilling. This explains why cheaper wool coats often pill faster than more expensive ones made with higher-quality wool.
What is the best washing temperature for a wool coat?
The best washing temperature for a wool coat is 30 degrees Celsius or colder, preferably on a wool cycle or hand-wash cycle. Higher temperatures cause the wool scales to open up, which makes fibers clump together, the fabric shrink and pilling occur faster. Cold or lukewarm water protects the fiber structure and keeps the coat in shape.
Always use a short, gentle wash cycle with a low spin speed, a maximum of 600 rpm. The more mechanical stress during washing, the more friction the fibers experience. Some wool coats are better off being hand-washed in lukewarm water, gently kneading the coat without wringing it.
After washing, lay the coat flat on a clean towel to dry. Never hang it on a hanger while it is still wet, because the weight of the damp material pulls the shoulders and sleeves out of shape. Direct sunlight and a dryer are also not recommended, because heat damages the wool fiber.
Which detergent should you use for woolens?
For woolens, use a special wool detergent or a mild liquid detergent without enzymes. Enzymes in standard detergents break down protein-rich fibers, and wool consists largely of protein. This makes regular detergents harmful to the fiber structure and speeds up pilling and wear.
Wool detergents are specially formulated to retain the natural oils in the wool fiber. This keeps the fibers supple, reduces static electricity and makes the fabric less prone to pilling. Always use the recommended dosage, because too much detergent is difficult to rinse out and can leave residues that make the fabric stiff.
Also avoid fabric softener with woolens. Fabric softener leaves a thin layer over the fibers that makes the fabric feel soft at first, but in the long run it weakens the fiber structure and actually promotes pilling. A good wool detergent makes fabric softener unnecessary.
How do you store a wool coat to prevent pilling?
The best way to store a wool coat is folded in a clean, dry space, or hanging on a wide coat hanger that properly supports the shoulders. Improper storage is one of the most underestimated causes of pilling, because friction against other garments damages the fibers, even when the coat is not being worn.
Preferably store the coat in a breathable garment bag made of cotton or linen. Plastic bags trap moisture, which can cause mold and fiber damage. Place a cedar block or lavender sachet with the coat to keep moths away, because moth larvae feed on wool fibers and cause irreversible damage.
Also make sure there is enough space in the closet. If coats hang close together or are crammed in, constant friction arises between the fabrics. Give your wool coat some room, and it will keep its shape and quality much longer.
If your coat has leather details, such as a collar or elbow patches, they need care too. Our leather protection sets help keep those details protected and looking good alongside the wool.
How do you remove pills from a wool coat?
The safest way to remove pills from a wool coat is with a fabric shaver or lint roller. An electric fabric shaver, also known as a pill remover or lint shaver, gently shaves the balls off the surface without damaging the underlying fibers. Always use this device with a light hand and in the direction of the weave.
Using a fabric shaver
Set the fabric shaver to the lowest setting and move it over the fabric in calm, straight strokes. Don’t press too hard, because too much pressure can damage the fabric or cause thin spots. Empty the collection container regularly so the machine keeps working properly.
Alternative methods
A lint roller is handy for loose lint and hair on the surface, but it does not remove firmly attached pills. A fine comb or a special wool comb also works well for light pilling. Never use a razor or ordinary scissors, because they damage the fabric and make the problem worse.
When is pilling a sign of poor-quality wool?
Pilling is a sign of lower-quality wool when it occurs intensively across the entire coat after just a few wears, even in places without significant friction. Light pilling at friction points is normal, but rapid and widespread pilling indicates short, weakly interwoven wool fibers or a high proportion of synthetic fibers.
Quality wool, such as merino wool or Shetland wool, has longer fibers that are woven more firmly into the fabric. These fibers come loose less easily and therefore pill more slowly and less severely. Cheaper wool fabrics often use shorter fibers or a lower wool content, causing the fabric to deteriorate faster.
Another indication of lower quality is when pilling continues after you have removed the pills. With good wool, pilling stabilizes over time, because the loose short fibers have been removed. With lower quality, the fabric keeps producing new pills, which indicates that the fiber structure is fundamentally weaker.
How Donders 1860 helps you care for your wool coat
For us, it’s all about coats that last season after season. Our men’s wool coats are made from high-quality materials with a strong fiber structure, so pilling is kept to a minimum. We select fabrics that withstand daily use and retain their look, even after multiple washes.
Here is what you can expect from us:
- Premium wool coats with a fine weave that pills less quickly
- Honest and transparent advice on material composition and care instructions
- A wide range of wool coats, bomber jackets, bodywarmers and transitional jackets for a variety of occasions
- Style advice and buying guides that help you choose the right coat for your lifestyle
Looking for a wool coat that keeps its quality and looks good year after year? Check out our full range at Donders 1860 and find the coat that suits you.